MEDFORD MAIL TRIBUNE REVIEW—April 7, 2006
Among all the gimmicks in the culinary world, there’s no substitute for serving good, honest food. Ashland’s Mihama’s Teriyaki Grill has spent the past 15 or so years doing just that.
On Siskiyou Boulevard just across from Southern Oregon University, the restaurant attracts students and professionals alike. Despite its cafeteria-like setting, Mihama‘s doesn’t need to make any apologies. The food is always cooked to order and reasonably priced; the latter qualification can be a rarity in Ashland.
As the name implies, teriyaki is Mihama’s specialty. Chicken, tofu and vegetable dishes with rice are in the $5 range while salmon runs closer to $10. But the portions aren’t stingy. Many full plates could serve two people.
I was pleased to see red snapper among Mihama’s offerings on a recent weekday lunch outing. The sweet white fish is not common in the Rogue Valley and remains one of my favorites after a childhood spent on the coast.
I ordered the plate, which included brown rice and steamed vegetables for $8.50. The snapper also is available as a burger or panko-breaded and fried.
Co-workers opted for the chicken teriyaki plate ($6.85) and tofu teriyaki plate ($6.40). Pots of green tea were in order all around. At $1.40, a large tea — big enough for two to four people — is a bargain.
While likely previously frozen, the snapper was better than expected, moist and without a trace of fishy aroma. The amply sized grilled fillet was basted with soy-mirin and topped with a delicious ginger teriyaki sauce. The side of tartar seemed a little strange given the distinctly Asian taste, but perhaps the condiment is just too ubiquitous with seafood to leave off.
The steamed vegetable medley incorporated broccoli, cauliflower, carrot and zucchini. I’m not usually partial to vegetables prepared this way but did manage my way around about half of them. Meanwhile, a normally food-fussy co-worker extolled their virtues — so much better than any other restaurant’s.
"They just taste fresh," he said.
His grilled teriyaki chicken exhibited an authentic and tasty char, attractive even to someone typically not fond of the fowl. No pre-pressed grill marks here.
But while the chicken was presented in slices atop its bed of rice, the tofu was served exactly opposite of what one would expect — in two large slabs.
I suspect most establishments serve this soybean curd in small pieces to render it less intimidating. But Mihama’s tofu requires no such disguise. Marinated in soy, sherry, mirin and curry, then flame-grilled, it was delicious.
Even non-vegetarian types couldn’t help but like Mihama’s tempura veggies. A plate of battered and deep-fried carrot, onion, green beans, zucchini, sweet potato and butternut squash with rice costs $5.05. On previous visits, I’ve also enjoyed these veggies in udon soup, a fish broth with thick Japanese noodles ($6.10).
Japanese curry, chicken katsu, spicy flame-grilled selections, salads, shrimp, oysters and beef, chicken, fish or tofu burgers round out the menu. Plates come with a choice of white or brown rice and steamed veggies or salad.
Mihama’s Teriyaki Grill is at 1253 Siskiyou Blvd., Ashland. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday. Call 488-3530.
— Sarah Lemon
